IceToolz Crown Race Remover

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IceToolz Crown Race Remover

IceToolz Crown Race Remover

RRP: £32.50
Price: £16.25
£16.25 FREE Shipping

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We researched other brands and found that they were appalling quality straight out of the box and often more expensive too. Headset bearing races are held by an interference fit into the head tube. An interference fit occurs when parts are held together by internal and external surfaces forced together. There must be a slight diameter difference between the two pressed surfaces. Typically, the pressed headset race outside diameter should be between 0.1mm and 0.25mm larger than the head tube inside diameter. When the cups are pressed, the head tube will flex and enlarge slightly to allow the cups to press. This tension is what keeps the cups tight in the frame. A Deda Elementi stem happened to be hiding in a corner of the workshop—glorious find … had completely forgotten that this piece of goodness was there. So, on it went. Way more elegant that the original piece of ugliness, you have to agree! The key to making a threaded headset work properly is by tightening the top race or preloading the bearing, noting the point where fork rotation becomes stiffer.

A threaded top race screws onto the fork threads, then tightens onto the bearings which are either caged in a retainer or run free in the race. When rotating the screwdriver, the race should be lifted by far less than 1 mm. Go gently, patiently. The goal is to lift the race as parallelly to the crown as possible, in small increments. After there is enough room to use a larger screwdriver, repeat the process, going around with a larger flat-bladed screwdriver. Again, lift by just a little, at 8 to 10 different places all around the fork. Remove fork crown race from fork. Use the Park Tool CRP-2. For specific use of CRP-2 see Crown Race Removal.

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Other alternatives to the SFN include any of the steerer mounted stash tool systems that each have unique ways of tightening the headset. A few of those systems include the One Up EDC Tool System, the STASH Multi Tool from Granite designs, the Specialized SWAT system, or the Bontrager BITS. Tighten handles of both plunger assemblies evenly until blades begin to wedge under the crown race. Threads of plunger assemblies should be approximately equal relative to outer shell. Continue to tighten the handles of the plunger assemblies until the edges of the blades are snug under crown race. Do not over tighten. There are two types of headset, threadless and threaded. The fork, however, is the key to both designs.

When replacing the headset (i.e. fork, or steerer bearings), removing the fork crown race (fork cone) can be problematic. Especially if the fork crown is wider than the race, so it can’t be punched off from the bottom. This post will explain the short and simple procedure and note the needed tools.

Toward the tippy top, a dust cover is placed above the preload spacer(s) to protect the bearing from the elements and allow the system to be tightened properly. This Cane Creek top cover has the preload spacer built-in. On other headsets, the cut blue ring in the center will be a separate piece, slotted between the upper bearing and the steerer tube. Engage sliding press plate onto hex shaft, and push plate upward until headset cup meets head tube. Release lever. Sliding press plate lever must be engaged in one of seven hex shaft notches. Pull downward on lower press plate to test engagement. Each of the moving parts in contemporary mountain bikes uses a similar system to rotate and slide with minimal friction and maximum longevity. Learning to maintain and replace those active components can save heaps of cash and time. A few DIY mechanic skills may also provide the confidence to dig deeper into the forest with the knowledge that you can sort out most mishaps. What’s in a headset? This is an external cup headest. Right to left: crown race, lower bearing, lower bearing cup, upper bearing cup, upper bearing, cap or “dust seal”.

After crown race has been pulled, loosen plunger assemblies and remove the CRP-1 and the crown race from the fork. You can maintain or repair a bike without most specialist tools. However, the risk of damage to your bike frame, the component you are working on, or both, is high. One of the last steps to a headset install, before sliding it all together and adjusting the headset is to install the bearing cups. The video above shows just how to do so with the Park Tool press. You can perform the same install with a threaded rod, some large washers, and a couple of nuts. This is another install element to perform with great patience, making sure to grease the frame and cup, press them in one at a time, and keep the cup aligned with the frame’s headtube at all times.

Pressing Fork Crown Race

Use a hammer at end of RT-1 and drive cup from head tube. Use care as cup approaches end of tube, as tool may fall to ground on last blow of the hammer. The biggest job is frame refurbishment. You need to remove all components; strip the bike down to the frame, then take it to a paint shop If play is present, repeat steps “6” and “7” above until play disappears. Adjustment is finished when there is no play in any position as the fork rotates. A threaded headset works with a fork that has threads running from the top down towards the fork crown for several inches. If there is, you can install a 1” threadless headset to replace the threaded headset. HOW TO REMOVE A THREADED HEADSET

With that core job out of the way we’d then install a spruced-up crank, toe-clip pedals, a new bar and classic shifters. Rotate the fork by 1/8 of a circle (some 45 degrees), then repeat the process. In this first go around, don’t try to force the blade all the way in – just by about 1 mm.Mounting a new headset will be explained in a separate article. Now, just a note: after placing a new fork crown race, clean all the excess mounting paste so it doesn’t get mixed with bearing grease. Also, do the whole round. Rotating the fork by 1/8 of the circle. Work slowly and gently, without much force so the steerer tube doesn’t get cut, or damaged. A rider wishing a more upright position opts for a longer steerer, filling the gap between stem and headset with one or more spacers. A messy pile of components fit under the headset umbrella. Beginning from the base, there’s the crown race. This is a thin ring that slides onto the fork’s steerer tube and sits against the fork crown, allowing a specific headset to interact with a fork. The lower bearing in a headset can have a different shape depending on how it’s designed, so the included crown race “pairs” these two components. Use a caliper to measure the outside diameter of the cups. Next, measure the inside diameter of the head tube in two places, each 90 degrees from the other. Average the two reading. If the head tube more than 0.25mm smaller than the race, it may be reamed using the HTR-1 Headtube Reaming and Facing tool. If the race is between 0.01mm and 0.09mm, a different headset with a larger press race should be used. It is also possible to use a retaining compound such as Loctite® RC609. If the race is equal to or smaller than the head tube, a different race should be used. See discussion of press fit standards below.

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